Personalized training for you and your horse
Your Cart is Empty
There was an error with PayPalClick here to try again
Thank you for your business!You should be receiving an order confirmation from Paypal shortly.Exit Shopping Cart
|Posted on 17 April, 2017 at 12:53||comments ()|
This marks the third post of jumping gymnastics. These are designed for a few scenarios:
1. Green horse new to jumping
2. Unconfident horse needing to gain muscle strength, coordination, and confidence over fences
3. Horses coming back to jumping work needing to build up strength
4. Horses who need to refine their skills and polish their jumping form (the first few lessons will be refreshers for this horse)
SO at this point your horse should be confident and comfortable over trot poles, canter poles, and a simple gymnastic of trot poles to a small cross rail. You should also know your horse's most comfortable tort distance (usually close to 4' for most horses) and their most comfortable distance for canter poles on the ground (usually close to 9-10').
Once you have mastered these basics, the options are endless. I will continue to post variations and complications to the task to improve you and your horse's ability, connection, relationship, balance, eye, coordination, the list of benefits goes on and on!!
I like the next step to be adding to the end of the gymnastic. Using the "trot in" aspect of 3 trot poles helps the horse to look at the obstacles and analyze what is coming, rather than just rushing to the base to try to get through it quickly. So lets set the symple gymnastic and add a canter pole on the backside. This is also known as a placing rail. A placing rail on the backside of any jump encourages the horse to land an appropriate distance after the jump, prevents her from running after the jump, and rebalances the horse back onto their haunches quickly after the jump, further increasing hind end strength.
Heres what it looks like:
Remember as you are working through the gymnastic that the horse's job is to jump. Your job is to stay out of the way. Being careful about the measurements, making changes to the distance, THAT is what teaches the horse what to do. Let the equipment show the horse what to do. Most riders prefer to just hold a half seat or two-point position throughout this exercise. If you attempt to change from sitting to two point over each pole/jump, its very easy to get left behind. This could easily discourage your horse, as the discomfort from you wiggling around can be distracting and sometimes a little painful.
The next step is to add some canter poles after the jump. This increases coordination for the horse and encourages an even stride after jumping. This should ONLY be done once your horse is comfortable with the single placing rail after the jump. Rushing into this can end up being dangerous to the horse, if they are not paying attention or not coordinated enough to canter over poles without a jump, they can easily trip and possibly injure themselves.
Remember the important bits: rhythm, straightness, confidence, forward motion. Stay out of your horse's way, let the poles do their work.
|Posted on 9 April, 2017 at 12:15||comments ()|
If you haven't read my first gymnastics post, please head back and check it out! It goes over the basics needed before training your horse to jump.
If you have read it, by this time your horse should be consistently and confidently working over trot poles and canter poles in various areas of your riding space. If you are unsure, spend a bit more time on those before moving on. You can also continue varying the trot and canter poles by raising alternating sides of the rails with a small riser. Jump Blocks work really well for these gymnastics -- Here is a link to a great set on amazon -
At this point we are ready to introduce the first jumps for your horse! My favorite way to introduce a jump is through the most basic gymnastic - 3 trot poles to a small cross rail. You already did the work of finding your horse's most comfortable trot step in part 1. Now, multiply that by two (yes, I know, math!!! We never thought we would use 'solving for x' after school!) and place a small cross rail at that point.
For most horses, This will be 4 feet between the trot poles, and 8 feet between the last trot pole and the cross rail.
How it feels: The horse may trot the entire exercise at first. While that's not the eventual goal, its a great starting point. The jump should be low enough that she can easily walk over it to see the distances. Ideally, the horse trots the 3 trot poles, and sets her feet together before the cross rail so that as she is in the air over the cross rail she is already in rhythm for a canter. The cross rail should feel like one elevated canter stride, because that's exactly what it is! :)
I suggest using this exercise many, many times. I still revert back to a version of this on my mare who is consistently jumping 2'3 - 2'6". Once the horse is confident and comfortable with a small cross rail, raise it up a bit to look bigger. This would also be a good stage to start incorporating some filler (decoration) to the jump. Start small, with a few fake flowers from the dollar store. Place them at the edge of the jump and progressively move them closer and closer to center, as long as your horse is accepting them and is not terrified of the horse-eating nature items.
This exercise can be adjusted to take up months of training. Lengthen the trot poles to get your horse to stretch a bit. See if you can really get your horse responsive to the jump! Remember, you are the confidence here. The rails themselves do the training to 'tell' your horse where to put her feet. Your job is to keep her straight and stay out of her way as she negotiates the challenge. There is no shame in grabbing mane, especially if it means avoiding yanking on her mouth in the air.
Once this is accomplished, Try varying your exit strategy. Can you get a left lead canter on purpose? Try alternating which direction you go after the jump and see how well your horse responds. Bonus points to the horses who can halt in a straight line afterwords! Halting straight is a great way to build up some extra balance, co-ordination and glutes!
Have fun, stay safe and jump on!
Gymnastics to increase your horse's confidence and co-ordination (or to teach him to jump from square one)
|Posted on 5 April, 2017 at 9:32||comments ()|
Most of these upcoming exercises will be easy for a young, green horse.
They are designed to be worked in order. Each task should be completed, and ridden until the horse is 100% reliable with the particular setup, before moving on.
The first step to get your horse comfortable with Jumping Gymnastics is trotting poles. Depending on your individual horse, the measurement between poles will be 3-5'. For example, my 14.1hh pony can comfortably ride any distance. But when I first started working her, she couldn't do anything but about 3.75'. The easiest way to determine what is comfortable for the horse is to lunge them over poles. This ensures that when the horse takes a funny step trying to accommodate the new exercise, a rider's balance won't negatively impact their stride and impulsion.
Of course this means your horse will need to be reliable on the lunge line.
So, lunge your horse over poles, starting at 4'. If he takes 2 steps between sometimes, scoot them a few inches closer. If he skips a pole sometimes (taking two poles in one step), they need to be spread apart a bit more. If he attempts to canter, move the poles closer. Keep working on adjusting these poles over a few different sessions to find his most comfortable stride. Later you can adjust the poles to achieve different training results. Ill talk on that later.
Once you find your horse's most comfortable trot step, you can start adding in variety. I like to use the mantra "Do it until its boring". You are training your horse by using these tools. If you rush through, or skip sections, or don't thoroughly cover one piece, you may end up having to fix things later, or you may end up with a horse who is only comfortable and coordinated in certain circumstances.
Remember to reward your horse. Each horse is an individual. You must learn to adapt to what your horse enjoys most as a reward. For most horses, simply coming down to a walk on a loose rein is a good reward in the early stages of training. Some horses pay enjoy a trot on a loose rein, and others may want to stand completely still to absorb the lesson. Bonus, if you haven't heard of clicker training yet, a clicker can be a great quick reward to let the horse know he has completed the exercise successfully.
The next step is Canter poles.
Make sure that your horse is confident and willing over trot poles before trying multiple canter rails in a row. If you need extra time on trot poles, but you are going stir crazy, try cantering just one single pole instead.
Canter poles in general should be placed 9-11 feet apart. Depending on your horse and his ability and coordination. What you do NOT want is to have them at a full canter stride (12') as very easily this can turn into the horse getting strung out and reaching too far.
Rinse and repeat until these exercises come naturally to the horse. The time this can take will vary greatly, depending on the horse and rider. Its best to set "check in" points, rather than an end date for each exercise. When you are ready to move the horse to the next level, he should be happy trotting a straight line through the poles, cantering over trot poles, in different areas of your riding arena. Move the poles to create variety and increase the horse's confidence. The secret is to keep 1 piece the same, and change others. For example, use the same trot poles, but move them to a different spot where there are different shadows. At this stage of his training, it would be unfair to expect the horse to accept all factors being changed every time. You have to learn how to listen to your horse and what he is telling you.
horse balks at the poles - If your horse stops forward motion, he may need a refresher of the basics. He needs to respond to leg, voice and weight cues, at least on a rudimentary level, to accomplish these tasks. If they are not solid, go back to the lunge line, and associate a word or noise with "go faster". This can be accomplished by saying the word (or clucking) at the same time as swinging the lunge whip towards him. Then under saddle, use that same word or phrase at the same time as a light tap of the riding crop behind your leg. If your horse doesn't respond, go back to basics.
horse leaps over the poles - If your horse takes a superman leap over the poles, try to simplify the exercise until he learns how to "see" the poles. Remember they do not have the same depth perception as humans. For example, you could go down to 1 trot pole until she learns what it feels like to trot over the poles.
horse veers/weaves/drunk drives over poles - If your horse trots/canters as though hes had too much to drink, its very similar to the last problem, he is not responsive to leg/rein cues and probably should go back to basics. Talk to your trainer about lateral cues and how to get the horse more responsive.
1. Before starting, horse must know how to ride straight and forward, and lunge.
2. Lunge over poles if he has not been exposed to them before or has confidence issues.
3. Work the trot poles before moving to canter poles
4. Horse should be confident, reliable, and predictable before changing the exercise.
This is the foundation for all jump training. You are laying the foundation for a life skill for the horse. Do not rush through this. Just like building a house, the foundation is extremely important.
|Posted on 8 April, 2016 at 12:09||comments ()|
|Posted on 10 March, 2016 at 12:53||comments ()|
|Posted on 3 October, 2015 at 23:00||comments ()|
We need to talk.
Riding a horse involves coordination, balance, strength and patience. As you progress, you work towards higher goals and raise your expectations of you and your horse. suddenly, you can feel your horse making decisions, changing balance, speed and focus, and you never noticed these things before. One of the biggest transitional changes if the use of the outside rein.
In beginning riding lessons, we learn to look left and open the left rein to turn left. Simple, right? As you progress, you work towards riding the horse underneath you instead of just pointing the horse's nose where they need to go.
It's about the whole horse
One you have mastered cantering and some small jumps, its time to re-evaluate how the horse moves. In order to carry a rider, a horse needs to have balance. We can assist their balance by driving them into a turn rather than pulling them into a turn. We begin to learn to use the outside aids. First you apply an outside leg pressure, to encourage and push them, drive them, where you want to go. For some horses that is all that is needed. Most lesson horses, however, have learned to "tune out" some commands, in case it was a mistake on the novice rider's part. For horses that have "tuned out" the outside leg, they need an additional aid. We see these extra-wide turns and call this "bulging out"
A horse that bulges isn't naughty, simply unbalanced and not focused and directed
To prevent bulging out, use an outside, bearing rein. Often in a bulging horse, we see the rider's outside hand shift forward, similar to a small turn made while riding a bicycle. This really encourages bulging... when you release a rein aid, the energy and forward motion can only escape in that direction. We don't want the horse's energy to escape out towards their outside front leg. This would mean an imbalance. Instead we need to capture that energy. Sit up, drive the horse forward and collect the energy with an outside bearing rein, which is pressure straight back towards your outside hip. This creates a wall of pressure on the outside of their body, connecting the driving outside leg with a collecting outside hand, so that the horse engages that entire side of their body.
|Posted on 13 May, 2015 at 21:38||comments ()|
Horseback riding is a tough sport. It takes a lot of work, sweat, dedication, and commitment. Many people spend hours and hours in the saddle practicing keeping a posting trot rythym, holding two point for laps and laps and laps, and perfecting "inside leg to outside rein". We want the best for our horses. We feed high quality grain, try to give the best hay available, and continually buy new tack, expensive treats, and not to mention riding apparel for ourselves.
But all the dollars and time spent means nothing if you and your horse aren't working towards better communication.
You must remember that the horse is a herd animal. They build and maintain relationships with other horses by eating together, playing together, and resting together.
Some simple ways to spend time with your horse that will build trust and communication - these can be done before riding as a mini-warmup, or after you're done, when you're cooling out the horse, or waiting for your ride to come!!
- Graze your horse where he doesn't normally get to graze
- Go for a nice handwalk with your horse (Bonus - this doubles as a training exercise in the spring before venturing out for the first trail ride of the year
- Spend an extra 10 minutes currying your horse, or give her a nice back massage! Use the heels of your hands rather than the points of your fingers
- If your horse is in a herd, you can do belly lifts and carrot stretches while he is eating with the herd (as long as the other horses are safe to work around)
- Teach her a new trick! Be careful, as tricks can be dangerous if your horse attempts them when you aren't paying attention. I suggest sticking to tricks like shaking their head yes/no, picking up something off the ground like a riding crop, or lifting a foot on command for hoof cleaning.
No matter how your ride goes, he is still your good horse. He works hard for you, and you should treat him (or her) with the love and respect she (or he) deserves!
Show your horse you care! :)
|Posted on 5 May, 2015 at 21:43||comments ()|
Horse shows aren't for everyone. There is a lot of prep time, pressure, goals, and lets not forget they aren't free.
But there are many benefits to showing. Even small local shows give riders the opportunity to work towards tangible goals, and to show off their skills and be proud of their achievements. There is also the added benefit of another professional horseperson watching your ride and objectively judging your skills. At local schooling shows, most judges are willing to talk to you after your ride to point out areas for improvement. You can then work with your trainer to improve, and sometimes hearing it come from someone else in the same or a different way, will help to solidify what your trainer has been teaching you.
Preparing for a show is an extensive process. First of all, you have to make sure that your horse can handle the added commotion. This means you can work with your horse on being confident in crowds, with unfamiliar objects, and unfamiliar people. Sometimes just hauling to a trail ride with a group of horses can show you where your horse excels in groups, and where you may need to focus more effort and positive reinforcement.
Once you are confident your horse can handle unusual circumstances, crowds, added noise, and hauling to a new place.... then you can focus on you. Talk to your trainer about what type of show you should try, what classes you should enter, and if he/she will come along to help it go smoothly. You shouldn't think of a show as competing at the highest level possible. A show should be easy, fun, and a manageable challenge. For example, for a novice rider, schooling jumps at home of around 2'6", your first show or first few shows should be at a level that is easy, and lower than what you practice at home. So you may consider showing at 2' or 2'3". Its very likely that you and your horse will be "amped up" the day of the show. You don't want to add the pressure of jumping at your maximum level.
Judging shows is not a science. Each judge has the right to choose how important riding errors are in placing a class. You may find a judge who pins a rider last because she missed a lead, or was late changing her diagonal. Another judge may allow that rider to pin higher, over someone who has a floating leg. This is another reason talking to the judge after your class can be so beneficial. There is always something to learn at a show.
Beyond all the training, horse spent in the saddle, a show also almost forces you to look at your horse, your tack, and your organization skills under a microscope. Your trainer can help organize all the items you need.... but a short list includes: water bucket, hay, haybag, bridle, saddle, show pad, girth, spare bridle, brushes, show sheen, fly spray, negative coggins test, boot polish, tall boots, show breeches, show coat, hairnets, helmet, treats, leg wraps or shipping boots, hoof polish.... the list can go on and on and on, depending what type of show you are going to. All of this has to be prepared and loaded into the trailer (Don't forget the horse!!), often with a departure time of 5-6 AM!!! Bring a mug of coffee, and don't forget to smile!!!
|Posted on 18 December, 2014 at 9:39||comments ()|
|Posted on 26 November, 2014 at 14:24||comments ()|
No stirrup November is coming to a close. It is a good time to focus on adding in extra challenges to your normal routine. Currently a video is being made with some fun clips.
If you haven't worked without stirrups yet, there are still a few days in November! and you don't have to limit your muscle-building fun to just one month!
Start slow, just with walking... and hold your leg in the same position as if you had stirrups: knee on the knee roll, heel below your hip, and remember to sit up tall. allow your hips to stay close to the saddle and follow the motion. Once you are comfortable at the walk turning, stopping, changing speeds and bending, move up to a sitting trot. work your way up slowly, don't push yourself or your horse too hard or fast, and remember to have fun!!!